Quick answer: match the gap between the teeth to the thickness of your hair. Fine-tooth combs (teeth close together) are for fine, thin and straight hair and for finishing. Coarse and wide-tooth combs (teeth far apart) are for thick, wavy, curly and coily hair and for detangling. A dual-tooth comb gives you both on one comb. Rake combs with a handle are wide-tooth combs for very thick or long hair, and micro-tooth combs are for scalp, hairline and beard detailing. Below is a table to find your spacing, then a short explanation of why each one works.
Tooth spacing at a glance
| Your hair | Best tooth spacing | KYVU combs |
|---|---|---|
| Fine, thin or straight | Fine-tooth | T6, T9, W6, A6 |
| Long and straight | Fine-tooth, extra length | T5 (22.3 cm) |
| Normal or mixed, everyday styling | Dual-tooth (fine + coarse) | T1, B1, W2, A1 |
| Thick or wavy | Coarse-tooth | W1, W4, A3, T10 |
| Curly or tangled | Wide-tooth | T22, B22, W22, T15 |
| Very thick, coily or afro | Extra wide-tooth | T18, B18, T13, A7, W5 |
| Thick hair that needs control as well as detangling | Step-tapered wide-tooth | T13, T17 |
| Curly hair that tangles badly | Criss-cross (alternating) teeth | T16, B16 |
| Thick and long, whole-head styling | Rake comb with handle | B21, T29, B19 |
| Scalp, hairline, beard detailing | Micro-tooth / fine pocket | T20, T24, W24 |
| Sectioning and parting | Fine-tooth tail comb | T14, B14, A6 |
Why tooth spacing matters more than the material
Most people choose a comb by its look or material. Tooth spacing is the thing that actually decides whether a comb glides or pulls. Each tooth has to pass between strands; if the gap is narrower than the hair wants to go, the comb drags, snags and breaks hair. If the gap is far wider than the hair needs, you lose control and can't shape or smooth anything. The right spacing lets the teeth travel through the hair with just enough contact to guide it.
A second thing to know: every KYVU comb is hand-cut and hand-polished, so the tooth tips are rounded rather than seamed. That matters at every spacing, but most of all with fine teeth on fine hair, where a moulded plastic seam is what causes the scratching feeling on the scalp.
Fine-tooth combs — fine, thin and straight hair
Teeth sit close together, so the comb touches many strands at once. That is exactly what fine hair needs: lots of gentle contact to lay strands flat, close partings and smooth the surface. Fine teeth are also what you want for finishing after styling with a wider comb, and for straight hair that tangles little. Avoid fine teeth on thick, curly or wet hair — the gaps are too narrow and the comb will pull.
In the KYVU range the T6 (20.3 cm) is the full-size fine-tooth acetate comb, the T9 is the mid-size version, the T5 adds length for long, straight hair, and the W6 is the fine-tooth comb in beechwood with a handle.
Dual-tooth combs — one comb, two jobs
A dual-tooth comb has coarse teeth on one half and fine teeth on the other. Start with the coarse side to work through the hair and shape it, then flip to the fine side to finish. It suits normal hair, mixed hair types in one household, and anyone who wants a single everyday comb. It is also the right choice for a beard that needs shaping (coarse) and tidying (fine) in the same stroke.
The T1 and B1 are the full-size dual-tooth combs in tortoiseshell and black; the T12 and T11 are compact, the T4 and B4 are pocket size, and the W2 and A1 offer the same layout in beechwood and aluminium.
Coarse-tooth combs — thick and wavy hair
Coarse teeth are spaced wider than fine teeth but not as wide as a detangler. They are the general-purpose spacing for thick, dense or wavy hair: enough room for the strands to pass, enough contact to shape and smooth. Use a coarse comb for daily styling of thick hair, for working product through, and for beards that are dense rather than long.
Wooden combs are mostly coarse-tooth, because beech teeth need a little more width than acetate: the W1, W3, W4 and W8. In aluminium, the A3 adds a handle for sectioning; in acetate, the T10 and B10 are coarse-tooth pocket combs.
Wide-tooth combs — curly, coily and tangled hair
Wide teeth are the detangling spacing. The gaps are large enough that a curl can pass through without being stretched or pulled straight, which is what keeps the curl pattern intact and stops breakage. This is the spacing for wet hair in the shower, for working conditioner through, and for the first pass on any hair that knots. If you have curly or coily hair and only own one comb, make it a wide-tooth.
The broad-bodied T22, B22 and W22 are the hand-held detanglers; the T15 and B15 add a handle. For very thick, coily or afro hair, step up to the extra wide-tooth T18 and B18 (14 wide teeth), the step-tapered T13, the pocket-size aluminium A7 afro comb, or the compact wooden W5.
Rake combs with a handle — thick, long hair and whole-head styling
A rake comb is a wide-tooth comb with a deeper head and a handle. The handle gives you leverage and keeps your hand out of the hair, and the deep head means each stroke covers more hair. It's the spacing for thick, long or curly hair when you want to style the whole head quickly rather than detangle section by section.
The B21 has the deepest head in the range (5.7 cm) for very thick hair; the T29 is the full-head styling rake; the B19 and T19 are the compact versions for thick, wavy hair.
Micro-tooth and fine pocket combs — scalp, hairline and beard
At the other end of the scale, micro teeth give precision that no standard comb can: clean partings, tidy hairlines, close moustache and beard work, and gentle scalp stimulation. The T20 is the only true micro-tooth comb in the range. The beard and moustache combs are a step up from it — fine-tooth rather than micro, because facial hair is coarser than scalp hair — and come in each material, with or without a keyring: the fine-tooth pocket combs T24, B24, W24 and A24, and the keyring versions T25, B25, W25 and A25.
Tail combs — sectioning and parting
A tail comb (also called a rat-tail or pintail comb) pairs fine teeth with a long, pointed tail. The tail is for drawing clean partings and lifting sections; the fine teeth are for smoothing each section. It's a styling tool rather than a detangler. The T14 and B14 are all-acetate (no metal pin), and the A6 is the aluminium version.
Special tooth shapes — step-tapered and criss-cross
Spacing isn't the only variable; the shape of each tooth matters too. Two KYVU designs change the tooth itself rather than just the gap.
Step-tapered teeth (T13, T17) have a rigid square base that steps down to a slim, rounded tip. The base holds its line through dense hair so the comb doesn't flex or skate, while the tip stays gentle on the scalp. Choose step-tapered when thick hair needs control as well as detangling — shaping, parting and distributing product through a lot of hair. The T13 (21.8 cm, extra-wide spacing) is the one for very thick or coarse hair; the T17 (19 cm, 23 teeth) is the everyday version.
Criss-cross (alternating) teeth (T16, B16) angle every other tooth the opposite way. A knot is met from two directions at once and eased apart gradually, instead of being dragged through in one direction. It is the gentlest option for curly hair that tangles badly, wet or dry, and it works well on thick hair that's prone to breakage. Both are 19 cm combs with a handle.
Rule of thumb: step-tapered for structure, criss-cross for knots. If your hair is thick and tangles, many people keep one of each.
A simple way to decide
- Hair gets tangled or is curly? Start with wide-tooth, then add a finer comb only if you need to finish.
- Hair is thick but not curly? Coarse-tooth for daily use.
- Hair is fine or straight? Fine-tooth, and keep it dry when you comb.
- Not sure, or sharing a comb? Dual-tooth.
- Long and thick, and you want speed? Rake comb with handle.
- Thick hair that needs shaping as well? Step-tapered (T13/T17). Curls that knot badly? Criss-cross (T16/B16).
Once you know your spacing, the material is a second decision — see cellulose acetate vs wood vs aluminium for that.